‘Black doesn’t crack’ is a beauty myth we’re leaving at the door. This is your tell-all practitioner guide, from how Black skin matures to skincare routines and treatments.

On today’s World Menopause Day, let’s remember that ageing is a beautiful and natural process that happens to everyone regardless of skin concern and colour. It can take shape in many forms, from physical and mental changes to inherited concerns that can creep up on you unexpectedly. Apart from making sure that you regularly get health checks for peace of mind, there are other concerns around ageing, like maturing skin, that may need a little extra TLC. Yes, mature skin isn’t linked to a specific age group (our skin ages from as early as we’re born). Still, there can be a development in physical and clinical changes such as wrinkles, sunspots, pigmentation and sagging skin.

WHAT DOES AGEING LOOK LIKE ON BLACK SKIN?

We’ve all heard the age-old saying that ‘black doesn’t crack’, but we’re here to tell you that, unfortunately, that’s a beauty myth we need to leave in the past. Due to our increased melanin, signs of ageing, such as fine lines, wrinkles and collagen loss (leading to volume loss), aren’t as visible on our skin, unlike those with fairer skin tones. Still, it doesn’t mean that our skin doesn’t ‘crack’ or age - so please continue to wear sunscreen and take care of your skin!.

The most prominent signs of ageing on darker skin is hyperpigmentation, greyish skin tone and fine lines; especially around the eyes or neck where the skin is thinner. Ageing means a slower cell turnover cycle, which means old skin cells linger on the skin’s surface for longer, increasing the appearance of wrinkles, sagging skin, duller complexions, prolonged hyperpigmentation and rougher skin texture over time. Other changes will also include less collagen and elastin production, which will cause deeper set wrinkles, sagging and loss of firmness in the skin.

TWO TYPES OF AGEING

But, did you know there are two types of ageing? Intrinsic and extrinsic and awareness of these differences will help your skincare routines restore and preserve the skin’s youthful appearance and keep the body as healthy as possible.

Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, Black Skin Directory Practitioner and Founder of Adonia Medical Clinic, shares:

“Two factors are driving physical changes in the skin, intrinsic and extrinsic ageing. Intrinsic ageing is inevitably linked to our genetic background and fundamentally determined by our DNA history. It can be affected by degenerative effects such as free radicals, UV exposure, diet and hormonal shifts and the body’s natural ability to repair and rejuvenate its processes. And extrinsic ageing is a result of lifestyle and environmental factors which can trigger the physical characteristics such as skin sagging, thinning and cracking as well as the appearance and fixture of fine lines and wrinkles.”

Intrinsic ageing (made up of background and genetics) leads to:

Loss of elasticity in the skin
Fine wrinkles
Mild changes to pigmentation
The epidermis becomes thinner, which leads to dry and dehydrated skin

Extrinsic ageing (determined by lifestyle factors, such as smoking, pollution and UV exposure) leads to:

Coarse and harsh wrinkling
Increased inflammatory cells in the skin
A decrease in collagen leading to a reduction in strength and flexibility in the skin
An increase in benign growths such as Dermatosis Papulosa Nigras (DPN)
Irregular and mottled pigmentation (uneven skin tone)

This is why we always recommend SPF and UV protection as essential to your daily routine. Introduced as early as possible into your regimen will drastically help to keep many of these concerns at bay - Discover our SPF protection guide and edit.

SKINCARE ROUTINES FOR MATURE SKIN TYPES.

“The most important step we advise is to listen to your skin.”

— Dr. Ifeoma

1) START WITH A GENTLE CLEANER THAT DOESN’T STRIP OR AGGRAVATE THE SKIN.

NEOSTRATA RESTORE FACIAL CLEANSER GENTLE GEL FACE WASH

A great option for mature skin types as the soap-free, non-foaming gel cleanses the skin while made with gentle exfoliating acids (PHA) to break down any impurities.

2) INTRODUCE AN ANTIOXIDANT SERUM TO PROTECT THE SKIN FROM UV EXPOSURE.

LA ROCHE POSAY PURE VITAMIN C10 SERUM

As natural protectants, antioxidants neutralise free radicals and prevent oxidative damage to the skin. BSD favourite, La Roche Posay Pure Vitamin C10 perks up dull and tired skin. Apply in the morning before your moisturiser.

3) CUSHION THE SKIN WITH A MOISTURISER THAT STRENGTHENS THE SKIN’S BARRIER WHILST HYDRATING

DR JART+ CERAMIDIN CREAM

Dr Jart+ Ceramidin Cream is a moisturiser formulated with crucial shielding ingredients such as ceramides and hyaluronic acid to deliver intense moisture while protecting and strengthening your skin.

ZELENS EMULSION D FORTIFYING MOISTURISER

Zelens Emulsion D Fortifying Moisturiser is a lightweight daily cream to use morning and night that’ll hydrate and replenish skin with essential fatty acids necessary to support your skin barrier.

4) USE A BROAD SPECTRUM UVA/UVB SUNSCREEN DAILY

ESTÉE LAUDER’S PERFECTIONIST PRO MULTI-DEFENSE AQUA UV GEL SPF 50/PA++++

Estée Lauder’s Perfectionist Pro Multi-Defense Aqua UV Gel SPF 50 is an easy, lightweight gel you’ll forget you’ve applied. Not sticky or tacky on the skin, it melts in seconds and protects against UV and sun exposure and daily pollutants.

Skincare Tip: Look for skincare for your skin type and that contain targeted ingredients, including Retinol, Vitamin C, Niacinamide, Salicylic Acid and Glycolic Acid, which are impactful for treating fine lines or hyperpigmentation.
Moisturisers that include Ceramides, Glycerine, Phospholipids, Hyaluronic Acid, and Antioxidants will help to cushion and strengthen the skin’s barrier for maintaining skin health.

THE MENOPAUSE AND BLACK SKIN

While the skin has already shifted majorly through puberty, there will also be changes as menopause approaches and sets in.

Some women may experience hot flushes that can result in skin irritation and breakouts, and others may even experience Rosacea. When going through menopause, you may also notice that your skin may be drier and thinner. You must treat these skin concerns with soothing, gentle and calming ingredients to avoid further irritation.

FOR DRY TO VERY DRY SKIN

SALCURA BIOSKIN FACE WASH & DERMASERUM

Salcura BIOSKIN is an expert-recommended brand for dealing with rosacea or extremely dry and sensitive concerns. The face wash and daily serum, with your SPF and weekly (gentle) exfoliation, the face wash and daily serum is a robust and simple routine to keep skin free from irritation.

MATURE SKIN AND YOUR HAIR & SCALP

“The decrease in oil production during the post-menopausal period will naturally affect the quality and texture of the hair.”

— Dr. Wilson

As we know, the health, vitality and changes in the skin don’t just stop at the forehead; the changes also impact the scalp, which further affects the hair.

Dr Ingrid Wilson, Trichologist and Black Skin Directory Practitioner, explains, “The decrease in oil production during the post-menopausal period will naturally affect the quality and texture of the hair (Afro hair needs hydration for its health). Changes in hormones will cause the hair follicle to become more sensitive, affecting new hair growth and cause thinning hair too.'

Around menopause, changes such as female pattern hair loss and other variations of Alopecia can be seen, which can have a massive impact on self-esteem. In situations like these, It is recommended to explore factors such as medical conditions, nutrition, lifestyle and hair care practices impacting the hair and seek a trichologist's expertise.

Ageing will undoubtedly mean changes to the skin and hair. For people of colour, some of these changes are not immediately visible, but you can implement preventative measures to prolong hair and skin health. Ageing is nothing to be scared of or concerned about; as we’ve said, a natural process we all have to go through, and as long as you remain healthy in your lifestyle and introduce the essential skincare and haircare ingredients recommended by your medical practitioner, ageing can be of no concern.

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Ageing & Black Skin