Black Skin Directory’s Ultimate Guide to Sunscreen

Sun care doesn’t stop at the end of summer. Here’s what you need to know when picking your daily sun protection for the warm days and beyond…

There are a few things that are absolutely non-negotiables when it comes to a good skincare routine. Cleansing is a must; moisture is key and SPF needs to be a daily pick. It’s easy to see SPF as a summer need when the heat is beating down on you so directly but applying SPF every day no matter the weather is necessary for protecting against ageing sun damage and more sinister issues such as skin cancer.

But, finding an SPF you want to wear every day isn’t always so easy. There are so many things you need to take into consideration such as the texture, the finish, whether it’s matte or dewy or if the formula is mineral or chemical. All of these variables will determine if a sunscreen works for you and when you find the right one, you’ll be more likely to wear it every day without fail. So, here’s everything you need to know when choosing your sunscreen.

Firstly, Mineral Vs Chemical SPF– What’s Better?

“The main difference between mineral and chemical sunscreens is the way that they protect the skin” notes Lorraine Scrivener founder of The Eden Clinic. “Mineral sunscreen filters, also known as physical sunscreen, sit on the surface of the skin and reflect UV rays away from the skin. In comparison, chemical sunscreens absorb UV rays, breaking their light energy into heat energy.”

It's important to note that both types of SPF can be ‘broad spectrum’ meaning they protect the skin against UVA and UVB, but they both have pros and cons. The biggest and the most well-known con of mineral sunscreens is that they tend to leave a white cast on dark skin. This is thanks to the zinc oxide, a white powder that is crucial to the make-up of the SPF and its efficacy. So, if you have a very deep skin tone, you’ll likely feel the need to cover this white cast with further makeup. However sensitive skin types will prefer a physical sunscreen as they’re less likely to cause a reaction on the skin.

RECOMMENDED MINERAL SUNSCREENS  

On the other side of things, chemical sunscreens work by turning light energy into heat energy which can be a con for some more sensitive and redness-prone skin types. This is also the case if you are currently dealing with a pigmentation issue. “When I am working with a client who has noticeable pigmentation, I recommend starting off with a physical sunscreen first,” says Dr Ingrid from the Crewe Hair and Skin Clinic. “I tell clients that it is to allow the skin underneath to rest and avoid heating up as much as with a chemical sunscreen. Once the pigment has been treated, and if they don’t like the physical sunscreen, then I will be happier to recommend an alternative chemical sunscreen.”

RECOMMENDED CHEMICAL SUNSCREENS

Can You Just Rely On Makeup With SPF In It?

The very short answer is no. Makeup that says it contains SPF has a small amount to accommodate for the rest of the ingredients that make the product work for its primary function so you would have to apply an awful lot to give an effective amount of SPF coverage. “Think of the SPF in your foundation as a bonus, not an all-in-one” says Lorraine.

The Best Way To Top Up Throughout The Day?

No matter how good an SPF is, you still need to reapply throughout the day to maintain a decent level of protection and this is especially important if you are out and about, sweating, exercising or swimming. You should reapply sunscreen every 2 hours but more often if exercising or swimming. However, it can be a bit of a tricky one to have to reapply if you tend to wear a full face of makeup over your skincare routine.

If this is the case, then a powder SPF will be the most preferable method of reapplication. “Powder sunscreens are a great way to top up your sunscreen during the day, especially if you are wearing makeup” says Busi Chamboko owner of Second Skin Therapy. “I would always advise starting the day with an application of a dedicated cream sunscreen, then using powder solely as a top up during the day.”  

Lorraine also agrees. “They are great to touch up with throughout the day – for instance, if you are wearing makeup, or if you find that your cream sunscreens can leave you quite oily. But I would always advise having a cream physical SPF40+ underneath. Also, to achieve the true protection from powder sunscreen, you must ensure that you are applying the recommended amount across the skin.”

If you have an oily skin type, you’ll probably welcome the mattifying effect of a powder SPF, but if you have dry skin, an SPF mist might be the better option for reapplication.

RECOMMENDED SPF FACE POWDERS

Are Mist Formulas Good?

Mists are also beneficial for topping up coverage throughout the day. “Application using a cream is far more thorough and easier to monitor as you can see exactly where you have applied” says Lorraine. “Additionally, I’m not convinced that mist sunscreen gives an even enough application if you are out and about– one gust of wind and your sunscreen is only on one side of your face.”

However, they can be excellent for initial coverage when it comes to the scalp and other hard to reach places. “Sunscreen mists certainly have their place on the market” says Busi. “If you have thinning hair, but it can be all too easy to miss areas when misting, and it’s difficult to quantify if there is enough of a layer on the skin to provide adequate protection”. 

RECOMMENDED SPF MISTS 

Whatever type, texture or finish of sunscreen you opt for, being diligent with your sunscreen is important for healthy skin. Click here to read more about comprehensive sun protection.

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