Retinoids Uncovered: What They Are and How to Use Them
Retinoids are the Swiss army knife of skincare refining texture, stimulating collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid to naturally plump and firm the skin. They smooth fine lines, soften the appearance of wrinkles, control oil production, prevent breakouts, fade hyperpigmentation, and gently exfoliate for a brighter, more even-toned complexion.
DIFFERENT TYPES OF RETINOIDS
There are quite a few different types of retinoids available but the most popular in skincare are Tretinoin, Isotretinoin, Retinaldehyde (aka Retinal) and Retinol. There are also so derivative retinoids such as Granactive Retinoids.
These are often referred to as first generation as they can bind to the majority of skin cell receptors most effectively, meaning the skin is able to work with them easily. This makes them highly beneficial in treating a wide range of skin concerns like hyperpigmentation, post-inflammatory pigmentation, acne and fine lines and wrinkles.
HOW DO RETINOIDS WORK?
Our skin cells have receptors which retinoids can bind to, stimulating our DNA and encouraging healthy skin cell generation and the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, which hydrate and reinforce the skin’s structure.
Within the Retinoid family, the key player is Retinoic Acid - the most bioavailable form of retinoid. Simply put, this means it can get straight to work when applied to the skin because cells recognise it. All other forms of retinoids need to be converted into Retinoic Acid before your skin can realise their benefits. This conversion process weakens their overall strength, so it can take a little longer for you to see results in your skin.
“This is not a bad thing! Slow and steady wins the race. For most users, retinoids sit within the skin maintenance category, so there really isn’t any need to use high strength versions. Those should be saved for people suffering from chronic skin conditions like severe acne.”
WHO CAN USE RETINOIDS?
Our body is able to naturally produce the collagen and elastin needed to build up and support our skin. However, this process typically starts to slow down from the age of twenty-five. So long as you have no medical restrictions, using retinoids will preserve and renew these vital building blocks of healthy skin as well as have positive effects treating skin conditions such as acne, psoriasis, uneven skin tone and texture, sun damage (e.g. hyperpigmentation) and in some cases even rosacea (which yes, can affect darker skin too!).
They can be found in varying formulations and strengths, so there’s something for everyone, from the beginners to the more experienced retinoid users.
Prescription oral and topical retinoids are prescribed to those with severe skin conditions such as cystic acne by a Dermatologist and must be used under their supervision. Check out our practitioners if you need to speak to a professional.
If you’re pregnant, trying to conceive and/or breastfeeding, the general advice is to avoid retinoids as they have the potential to cause harm to your child.
BSD’s Top Retinoid Picks
Looking for more Retinoid recommendations? Check out BSD’s Retinoid Hotlist
SO, ARE RETINOIDS FOR ME?
Absolutely, yes!
Retinoids are truly the royal family of skincare, and their profound effects on the skin make them a gold-standard skincare ingredient.
They support the superficial and deeper layers of the skin by regulating and normalising skin cell turnover, strengthening the structure of the skin and boosting volume.
They reduce inflammation in the skin and actively help to disperse and fade hyperpigmentation. They are the ultimate tyrosinase inhibitors (ingredients which limit the overproduction of melanin.
It’s safe to say that Retinoids are skincare all-rounders which can be slotted into any skincare regime for long term skin health benefits! And because they come in various formulations from oil to creams to gels and in a variety of strengths, there’s something for everyone!
ARE RETINOIDS SAFE FOR BLACK SKIN?
Yes, definitely!
The key is to build up your use gently over a period of time to develop your skin’s tolerance. Overuse, too fast and too soon, can cause inflammation and irritation of the skin, which can then cause hyperpigmentation and dark patches.
It’s best to start using Retinoids just a couple of times a week, increasing your use slowly until you are able to use it everyday.