Dear Black Skin Directory

Hello, I have quite a lot of hyperpigmentation on my face including my upper lip & feel very self conscious about it. I can’t afford expensive salon treatments, what make-up could I use to colour correct & conceal hyperpigmentation?

Hyperpigmentation is a pain and a bore. Hyperpigmentation is the most searched word on Black Skin Directory and we can see many of you looking for solutions - from in-clinic and at-home solutions to cosmetic cover up. I know firsthand the struggles of trying to conceal dark marks when I’m applying makeup.

Black woman with flawless make up with nose ring smiling. Used concealer to cover hyperpigmentation on Black Skin.

If, like me, you’ve had hyperpigmentation for a while, you’ll know that it can be damaging to your self-esteem and confidence. While there are many in-clinic options available, you might prefer to conceal it with makeup instead. To do this successfully, you’ll need to be open to experimenting with different products and techniques until you find what works best for you. Top celebrity make up artist and friend of BSD Joy Adenuga gave us the full scoop on how to go from basic to flawless.

“Hyperpigmentation refers to areas of the skin that become darker in colour than the surrounding skin due to an overproduction of melanin, which is the pigment responsible for our skin, hair and eye colour,” Adenuga says. The most common causes of hyperpigmentation are sun exposure, hormonal changes, inflammation and trauma. “UV rays stimulate melanin production as a natural defence mechanism, which can lead to uneven skin tone and the formation of sunspots,” Adenuga says. Changes in hormonal fluctuations and injuries to the skin (such as acne) can also trigger excess melanin production, resulting in post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).

Skin prep is the most important thing you’ll need to consider when covering hyperpigmentation with makeup. “Always begin with a clean and moisturised face to help the makeup adhere better. Primer is optional and may help minimise the appearance of texture but don’t forget to wear SPF,” Adenuga says.

Creamy or liquid formulas work well for concealing [on all skin types] whilst your chosen foundation should always suit your particular skin type.

Colour correcting is the next step of the process, for which Adenuga recommends using an orange or peach toned corrector, and applying small amounts with a small, fluffy brush to the affected areas and gently blending out the edges. After colour correcting, apply a medium coverage foundation using a stippling technique, building coverage and focusing more on the areas with hyperpigmentation.

“Using a colour corrector and foundation should conceal hyperpigmentation but if you prefer fuller coverage, you can use a concealer too. Apply it to the back of your hands first to warm up the product before applying it directly on the affected areas using a slightly damp beauty blender or a Kabuki brush,” Adenuga says.

Before you set your face, use a mirror to check that you are happy with how you concealed your hyperpigmentation. To keep your makeup in place, set your face with a setting powder, using a full, fluffy brush or lock everything in place with a setting spray for a natural finish.

Remember, hyperpigmentation can appear anywhere on the face, so you might need to adjust your technique or indeed the product itself to successfully conceal dark marks and discolouration. Also, don’t be afraid to experiment to find out what works best for you!