The Skin's Moisture Barrier
Black skin is drier than most ethnicities, and it is not just a beauty myth passed down from our mothers or aunties, repeatedly telling us to moisturise and oil our skin to avoid dryness or ashiness – there’s truth behind it. Studies have shown that black skin has a higher likelihood of losing water and moisture through the upper layers of the skin because of the way our skin cells are made up, the weaker rate of ceramides (fats found in cells to keep skin plump) and the lower chances of our skin peeling (meaning skin is rougher without regular exfoliation). This is why our skin’s moisture barrier is essential to understand. You may also have seen terms like ‘barrier function’ and ‘acid mantle’ and why keeping this balanced helps breakouts or flaking skin at bay. Essentially, if you get to know your moisture barrier, you say hello to healthy, hydrated, balanced and moisturised skin.
This is your guide to understanding your moisture barrier, the products and routines you need, and a follow-up feature on repairing and protecting your skin’s moisture barrier.
WHAT IS THE SKIN’S MOISTURE BARRIER?
Your skin is made up of three primary layers – the epidermis (top layer), dermis (middle layer) and subcutaneous tissue (bottom layer). But your moisture barrier comes into play on the outermost layer of your epidermis, known as the stratum corneum. This layer comprises a wall of cells containing oils and fats that act as a layer of protection from bacteria, irritants and environmental aggressors (a.k.a pollution and UV damage). This layer also sheds dead cells when we exfoliate our skin and is strengthened with electrolytes and nutrients to prevent water and moisture loss (preventing dryness and dehydration).
Keep scrolling to see what products you need to help strengthen and restore your moisture barrier.
WHY IS THE MOISTURE BARRIER SO IMPORTANT?
Without getting too scientific with the details, know this - your moisture barrier is vital to help the skin remain supple, plump and hydrated. Your moisture barrier is made up of intercellular lipids and fats (bear with us here!) that, like butter in a sandwich, hold skin cells together to prevent cracks or gaps from forming in the skin. Without the moisture barrier bacteria, pollution, cold weather, UV damage can all easily attack and weaken the integrity of your skin. So, when your barrier functions correctly, it can draw in moisture effectively and defend itself properly.
HOW TO INSPECT YOUR MOISTURE BARRIER? IS IT COMPROMISED?
The obvious signs that your moisture barrier is compromised are if it feels dry, irritated, tight or visibly flaking. And left to fend for itself without healing and soothing the skin, “it can lead to exacerbated eczema, psoriasis, increased rosacea symptoms and acne,” says Pamela Marshall, Co-Founder of Mortar & Milk Facial Skin Clinic.
There’s more to come on skincare routines and recommendations!
Most of us use far too many products like AHA’s and retinols. There is a place for them in skincare, but not as an overkill.
Pamela Marshall, BSD Practitioner & Co-Founder of Mortar & Milk Facial Skin Clinic.
Your skin’s moisture barrier can be compromised through various factors that can transition between lifestyle, environment or skincare products. Pamela highlights, “In terms of lifestyle activities if you spend a lot of time outside in the cold, damp climate, your barrier is likely to become compromised. Swimming in chlorinated pools is also a problem for the skin, although great exercise, so there are ways around it. In addition, excessive UV and pollution exposure is also not great. But we are more likely to have a compromised barrier from our products. Most of us use far too many products like AHA’s and retinols. There is a place for them in skincare, but not as an overkill.” she says.
A checklist of factors that can compromise your skin’s barrier:
An extreme change in environment, whether too hot, cold or windy
Allergies, irritants and pollutants
Sun exposure
Soaps and detergents
Harsh chemicals
Over-exfoliation
Skincare retinoids and acids used incorrectly
Stress
Genetics
HOW TO KEEP YOUR MOISTURE BARRIER HAPPY
If you think that your moisture barrier can do with some TLC, there are several recommendations you can add to your routine to help keep your moisture barrier healthy and happy.
Keep your routine gentle
Make sure you aren’t overdoing it with exfoliants and fragranced products. This can aggravate and irritate your barrier, causing further damage. Instead, exfoliate once or twice a week and introduce gentler exfoliants like PHA’s that subtly exfoliate dead skin but aren’t as harsh on the skin.
Keep an eye out for that pH
Not often a focus in skincare, but the pH of your skincare products is important for balancing your moisture barrier. Reach for products of a pH between 4.5 - 5.5. That means your acid mantle (the film on top of your stratum corneum) is healthy and can absorb unhealthy bacteria, viruses, fungi, etc.
Introduce ingredients for barrier repair
There is a range of ingredients that help to strengthen and nourish the moisture barrier. Introduce ceramides as a lipid; it helps to keep skin supple and moisturised. Humectants (like hyaluronic acid and polyglutamic acid) are also vital, as they pull water to the skin to keep hydrated and antioxidants such as Vitamin C to fight off aggressors. Oils, like squalane, are also essential to keep skin rejuvenated, smooth and supple without clogging.
Moisturise effectively
You want a moisturiser that is packed with as much goodness as possible. We’re talking ceramides and moisturisers formulated with oils rich in fatty acids that mimic your skin’s natural oils, vitamins and antioxidants. Your goal is to keep skin hydrated, try these moisturisers.
Your moisture barrier is smart; it can repair and heal itself with a helping hand from barrier bolstering ingredients and routines. It may take weeks or months for you to repair your barrier, so don’t be disheartened by slow changes or results – it will happen. If you find that your barrier needs repair, read ahead for how to repair and protect your moisture barrier.