When Treatments go Wrong.
History tells us that chemical peels have been around since the days of Cleopatra. The great Egyptian queen was known to to enjoy bathing in milk to soften, exfoliate and renew her skin. The lactic acid in milk acted as a mild chemical peel.
Fast forward a few hundred years and chemical skin peels are now a regular feature on many clinic menus. They are one of the easiest and fastest treatments to administer and when done correctly, they are extremely efficient in boosting skin health - tackling hyperpigmentation for more clarity, controlling oily skin and blemishes, exfoliating for smoother skin and increased radiance, boosting collagen to plump fine lines…the benefits are endless!
However, like all skin treatments they also have risks and in the wrong hands, they can cause irritation, burn and scar the skin. Sometimes, even in the hands of a suitably qualified practitioner, there is no way of always predicting how the skin will react, so to help minimise any chance of complications (because lets face it, they do happen from time to time) check out our pre-treatment tips. We’ve also taken it one step further with a post treatment SOS guide, just in case you can’t get hold of your practitioner and you need help and advice now!
When a treatment goes wrong, check out Tahira’s story.
Pre-Treatment Guide
IT’S GOOD TO TALK SO GET A CONSULTATION
The quickest and best way to know what’s good for your skin is to discuss your options with a qualified and insured practitioner. Never be afraid to ask questions, each is valid and important. At the end of every consultation you should feel like you were given the opportunity to discuss your concerns in detail and the recommendations given are truly bespoke to the needs of your skin.
TRY BEFORE YOU BUY, ASK FOR A PATCH TEST
Once you’ve had the consultation and a treatment plan has been agreed, it’s in your best interest to get a patch test at least 48 hours prior to treatment. Some treatments like laser lend themselves to patch tests better than others so where it’s available always go for it. Patch tests are important because they can be the first indicators of any allergies or intolerances to any of the materials or agents used in treatments.
DO YOUR HOMEWORK, PREP AND PRIME DILIGENTLY
Using products with ingredients similar to those in your treatment will help to condition your skin and prepare for the actual treatment. This regimen will help create an even canvas for your treatment and prevent uneven penetration of any ingredients like glyocolic acid or Vitamin A . You should start this skin priming routine at least 2-4 weeks prior to treatments to allow your skin to get used to the ingredients and reduce the possibility of an adverse reaction.
“Black skin has a higher chance of developing post treatment hyper-and-hypopigmentation so it is important to prime the skin . This is due to the melanosomes being larger and individually distributed making it easier to excite them when they come into contact with unfamiliar, high potency ingredients often used in treatments. This contact can trigger excess melanin production which leads to hyperpigmentation. Additionally, the fibroblasts are more active in darker skin, which is why black skin is richer in collagen and elastin but will form keloids scars easily if you are prone to them.”
We know that if there is a complication the risk of hyperpigmentation in black skin is high, so it pays to get things done correctly in the first place. If you sadly find your skin is experiencing a mishap due to treatment, our Post Treatment SOS Guide should come in handy.
Post Treatment Guide
Contact the practitioner immediately for help and advice. They should be able to provide you with the relevant care and information required to treat the affected area/s.
If the practitioner is unavailable or unable to provide the relevant care, then your next stop is your GP or A & E (whichever is quickest) to prevent any further damage or infection to the skin.
If you’re experiencing any intense heat sensations and pain, you can ease this by applying a cool compress - a clean flannel or towel immersed in cold water and wringed out . Don’t use ice directly on the skin as the extreme cold temperature could further shock and injure your skin.
If your skin becomes and/or feels intensely dry, apply a moisturiser that has barrier supporting ingredients which encourage wound healing and attract and retain water such as vitamin B5 (panthenol), hyaluronic acid, ceramides, squalene, beta glucans, phosphatidylcholine and Vitamin B3 (niacinamide). The GP may be able to give you something that also prevents infection.
Your skin will be vulnerable after a complication so a broad-spectrum sunscreen with a minimum SPF 30 is super important to reduce the severity of any pigmentation lurking.
If you’re thinking of embarking on skin rejuvenating chemical peels (or any treatment for that matter), rest assured they are a great treatment. Naturally, we hope that you will never need the post-treatment SOS plan, so one of the best ways to side step any complication is to consult a qualified practitioner like the ones we have listed on Black Skin Directory.
“Their superpower is that they KNOW Black skin!”