Vitamin A
A fat-soluble vitamin and alongside its natural derivatives (Retinaldehyde, Retinoic Acid, Retinol, Retinyl Palmitate, Retinyl Acetate). Vitamin A plays a key role in cell growth and development, making it an excellent topical ingredient for skin conditions like acne and psoriasis, but also hyperpigmentation.
Liquorice Extract
Containing an active called Glabridin, liquorice extract has the ability to treat hyperpigmentation resulting from sun damage and trauma to the skin. It’s often seen as a natural skin-brightening alternative to hydroquinone.
Vitamin B5
Ferulic acid is an organic compound commonly found in grains, fruit, vegetables, nuts and seeds. It’s usually combined with vitamin C and vitamin E to boost product stability as well as deliver antioxidants to the skin. It works by scavenging free radicals and inhibiting the enzymes involved in their generation whilst offering anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits to the skin.
Vitamin C
Also known as Ascorbic Acid, it’s a powerhouse ingredient for dark skin. It’s an antioxidant that plays an important role in the production of collagen and helps to protect the skin from the harmful effects of the sun’s UV rays. Using Vitamin C in your skincare can help to repair damaged skin including brighten and fade any existing spots of hyperpigmentation.
Vitamin D
The sunshine vitamin is essential for strong and healthy bones, but also necessary for the skin. In its Vitamin D3 form, the outcomes of skin conditions like acne and rosacea are improved due to its antimicrobial activity. Insufficient amounts of Vitamin D will cause skin to appear thinner and more fragile. Darker skin tones require even more Vitamin D than Caucasians as melanin prevents the skin from absorbing enough of the necessary sun rays.
Glycolic Acid
An exfoliant with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Its job is to loosen the bond that hold the uppermost underperforming dead skin cells, causing them to shed and reveal underlying skin.
Salicylic Acid
An exfoliant and has an anti-inflammatory effect on the skin by calming breakouts and angry skin. It works very well on oily/acne prone skin types as it can penetrate deep in the pore lining and help break down the sticky bonds that hold dead skin cells together which would otherwise clog pores leading to comedones, white heads and black heads.
Lactic Acid
A very popular Alpha Hydroxy Acid derived from milk.
When applied on the skin, it helps to reduce the signs of ageing, tackles fine lines and early wrinkles. This is achieved through its action of exfoliating the surface of the skin and encouraging the shedding of dull/underperforming skin cells. On dark skin, this also gently lifts any dullness from the complexion.
Azelaic Acid
Derived from grains such as wheat, barley and rye. Very effective against acne and used as a bleaching agent for skin, therefore great for treating hyperpigmentation and dark marks on the skin. Helps to shed skin cells and is antibacterial.
Mandelic Acid
Also a member of the Alpha Hydroxy Acid family, Mandelic acid is quite mild and is derived from almond nuts. Like acids in this family, it’s also an exfoliant and encourages the shedding of dead skin cells. It’s an excellent option for oilier skin types as it is a lipophilic acid that is readily absorbed by oily skin making it a great choice for acne prone skin and treating hyperpigmentation. It helps to reduce oil over time without over drying the skin.
Resveratrol
Resveratrol is naturally found in grapes, red wine, berries and peanuts. It works within the skin to improve its natural defence capabilities and boosts self-repair. Like many effective antioxidants, it has great anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits alongside combating UV-induced free radical activity.
Green Tea Polyphenol
Epigallocatechin gallate (ECGC) is an abundant compound in green tea that has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects on the skin, whilst protecting against the effects of UV radiation. It acts upon the MMP’s (enzymes which degrade vital proteins in the skin) to prevent UV damage and degradation of the extracellular matrix. This is a good ingredient for treating sun damage in the skin.
Melatonin
Melatonin is a hormone secreted by the pineal gland to regulate the circadium rhythm. It’s activities within the skin include the enhancement of the production and regulation of antioxidant enzymes to prevent DNA damage and cell death. It’s a great ingredient for managing all forms of oxidative stress within the skin.
Allantoin
Allantoin is naturally present in plants, animals and bacteria. This potent ingredient is usually extracted from the comfry plant to be used in cosmetics. It promotes a healthy skin barrier by replenishing moisture content in the skin, enhancing its natural exfoliation process, reducing irritation and improving smoothness.
Squalane
Squalane is a naturally occurring substance and it’s one of the most common lipids produced by the skin. The quantity of squalane in the skin decreases drastically by age 30 which contributes to the development of dry skin. It’s a great staple oil as its saturated structure makes it a lot more stable than its family member squalene, Additionally, it doesn’t have a greasy feel and it has added antioxidant and anti-bacterial effects - perfect for acne prone skin.
Ceramides
Ceramides contribute to 40% of the lipid bilayer - the glue that holds our skin cells together to form the protective barrier. They come in many different forms which are widely used in cosmetics to boost hydration in the skin, prevent dehydration and regulate what goes in and out of the skin.
Hydroquinone
A skin-lightening ingredient that is used medically to brighten and even the skin tone. Its main function is to suppress melanin in order to prepare the skin for further treatments and to lighten darkened patches of skin. It’s a controversial ingredient within skincare, but when used short term and under prescription with careful monitoring, it can be very effective. In the UK, Hydroquinone is a prescription drug and using it without medical guidance can lead to Ochronosis, a noticeable condition in which the skin becomes dark and thickened.
Alpha Arbutin
This is an enhanced biosynthetic form of Arbutin, which is naturally derived from bearberry plants. Its main function in skincare is to brighten and even skin tone by inhibiting the body from processing Tyrosine – the protein behind excessive melanin production that contributes to hyperpigmentation and melasma.
Tranexamic Acid
Tranexamic acid is a man-made form of the protein lysine that is widely used in medicine to prevent excess blood loss. Studies have proved that it has beneficial skin whitening effects through inhibiting the release of factors that stimulate the production of melanin. It’s mode of action in the skin makes it particularly effective in treating UV-induced hyperpigmentation such as melasma.
Kojic Acid
Kojic acid is produced by several different species of fungi that have the ability to limit the synthesis of melanin in the skin. It’s often found in skin whitening and brightening products to combat hyperpigmentation, dark marks and scarring. Studies have shown some irritation with prolonged use of Kojic Acid, especially if it’s above 1% of the total ingredient formulation.