It’s National Lipstick Day, and we’re celebrating with the ultimate lip care guide for black skin, considering all concerns.

Dry, chapped, pigmented lips or considering dermal fillers? In recognition of #NationalLipstickDay, here is everything you need to know for plump, hydrated and healthy lips!

WHAT MAKES OUR LIPS SO UNIQUE?

Before we get into the great products, treatments and solutions for your lip concerns, let’s talk about our lip characteristics. The skin on our lips is different from the rest of our body, and this is because (like the eyes) it is much thinner in comparison. While the skin has three primary layers (the protective stratum corneum, epidermis and dermis), the middle epidermis layer being where our melanin and skin tone are produced, there is no melanin mask underneath the lip’s surface. Meaning, that the tiny blood capillaries are visible, and the stratum corneum is extremely thin – giving each lip its unique colour.

You can also guarantee that because of the thinner layers and lack of oil (sebaceous) glands, lips can feel softer compared to the skin but are also left to fend for themselves when it comes to moisture – heavily reliant on the products and care you take. Defending against environmental and lifestyle factors and health and nutritional changes can impact lips, often leaving them dry, chapped or fighting against premature ageing because of UV damage.

TREATING DRY, CHAPPED LIPS

More common in the winter, dry, chapped and ashy lips are a genuine concern. “Harsh winter weather robs our lips of moisture, to the extent that they may become chapped and cracked,” says Busi, BSD Practitoner and Skincare Specialist and Founder of Second Skin Therapy. And, with no oil glands, our lips can’t create their essential moisture to protect the surface from the harsh realities of the seasons. Experiencing winter winds and vast changes in humidity from the heat of the indoors and chill of the outdoors or in the summer and the lack of hydration means our lips face trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), leading to a compromised skin barrier and dry, cracked lips.

What does TEWL mean? Essentially the amount of water that evaporates from the skin to the environment around it.

REMEDIES FOR DRY AND CHAPPED LIPS

Remain well hydrated to keep skin hydrated.
Use a humidifier to keep moisture in the air and stop drying your lips.
Any hot showers or abrasive products that strip away the moisture
Introduce moisturising balms to hydrate, heal and protect lips.

Try these recommended products

Summer Fridays Lip Butter Balm

If you're finding that you constantly have to top up your lip balm throughout the day, that is a sign telling you that your lip balm is giving out on you. Try this long-lasting moisture treatment by Summer Fridays. With oleic acid, shea and murumuru butter, lips will remain nourished and conditioned.

Laneige Lip Sleeping Mask

Often an overnight treatment will work wonders for dry and chapped lips. A cult beauty favourite, this option from Laneige will cushion lips in a hydrating berry mix, meaning lips feel softer and moisturised by morning.

Eurcerin Dry Skin Acute Lip Balm

While it may not have SPF protection, this lip balm is a lifesaver for dry and chapped lips. Incredibly soothing, it is made with liquorice root known for its natural moisturising abilities and anti-inflammatory ingredient, panthenol, known to protect against aggressors and ease irritation.

Our BSD Practitioners also share that introducing a lip serum will offer ultimate hydration. Some balms, with an oil or wax-based, provide temporary hydration, leaving lips dry after a couple of hours. Hydrating lip serums such as recommended below are fantastic options.

ARE LIP SCRUBS NECESSARY?

To maximise the hydrating and protective benefits of your lip balm or serum, try gentle exfoliating lip balms once a week to slough off excess dead skin to resurface and even the texture of your lips. Especially useful during winter months when lips are more exposed to cold and dry climates that suck moisture away from the skin, lip balm scrubs are also a great way to remedy flaky lips quickly to create the perfect canvas for your favourite lipstick. Lip scrubs can be considered a pampering nice to have if not dealing with persistently flaky or dry lips, however there are many affordable options for lip scrubs meaning that you can add one to your skincare collection whilst still invest in a hydrating lip balm or serum.

TREATING HYPERPIGMENTATION

Discolouration of the lips is very common in skin of colour. It can develop from several reasons including, “genetic influences, dehydration due to low fluid intake, sun exposure, smoking triggering melanin release, underlying medical conditions or hormonal changes (especially during pregnancy)” Busi explains.

Hyperpigmentation can be improved with expert-recommended advice including;

Dryness enhances discolouration, so staying on top of hydration levels and fluid intake can help.
quitting smoking
Treating a potential allergy
Diagnosis and seeking treatments for the medical condition
Keeping the lips protected from the sun
Ensuring lips are moisturised.

“I always recommend using any ingredients in combination with antioxidants (e.g. vitamin C and E) and broad-spectrum, SPF50 sun protection. And most importantly – practise sun avoidance, as you can undo months of anti-pigment treatment in a single day of excess sun” says Dr Stefanie Williams, BSD Practitioner and Private Dermatologist at EUDELO Dermatology London.

Have you thought about introducing an SPF lip balm? “Our lips can also get sunburnt, which many people don’t realise, so a day lip balm should always contain SPF 30-50” says Dr Williams.

Do Note: Upper Lip Hyperpigmentation is often caused by melasma, inflammatory reactions from food or allergies, medication or sun exposure.

Ultra Violette Sheen Screen Hydrating Lip Balm SPF50

Non-tacky, longlasting and ultra-hydrating, you can’t go wrong with this lip balm by Ultra Violette. It is packed with hydrating and moisturising ingredients such as shea butter and cacao seed butter to help seal and condition lips while protecting them from potential sun damage. Pop this in your bag for easy, all-day application.

Ultrasun Lip Portection SPF50

The brand is known for its high-protection products across skincare, body care, and lip protection is no exception. You can't go wrong with these ultra-nourishing properties to be fortified against UV and environmental aggressors and formulated with vitamin E for moisture, shea butter and argan oil.

DERMAL FILLER FOR YOUR LIPS

Because of the “black don’t crack” mentality, already having ‘fuller features’, white-washed marketing, and the negative stigma often associated with fillers, many black people avoid dermal fillers as a way to volumise lips. However, Fillers can naturally add volume, symmetry and definition when done correctly.

Not just for volume and definition, fillers are a reputable solution for improving the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles that can form on the lips and around the mouth area. Yes, black skin is tighter because of our collagen and elastin bonds, but it doesn’t mean our lips are resilient to ageing; it just isn’t as obvious. Juvederm is a popular filler option for black individuals that consider dermal filler much more inclusive in consumer-facing marketing and offer a wide range of options, utilising hyaluronic acid, for natural and varied results.

Book in your filler appointment with one of our BSD Approved clinics.

FINALLY

Much more than the size and shape, your lips deserve the same care and attention you pay to your skin, so make sure you prioritise them in your routine.

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A Guide to Luscious Lips