Retinoids Uncovered: Choosing the right one
Selecting the best retinoid for your skin concerns is key to seeing results.
Whether you’re looking to smooth texture, boost tone, increase radiance and fade dark marks and hyperpigmentation on Black skin, or are dealing with skin concerns such as acne, or fine lines and wrinkles there is a retinoid for you.
Whether your a newbie user or veteran looking to upgrade, it can sometimes feel like a you’re navigating a minefield when it comes to retinoids, so here’s a breakdown of the key differences and what to look out for.
The Strength
Retinoids come in varying concentrations so if you’re at the start of your retinoid journey, always start with the lowest concentrations before progressing to higher percentages. Prescription-strength retinoids like Tretinoin are higher in potency even at lower concentrations, and they are best saved for skin conditions like cystic acne.
The Packaging
Retinoids are very sensitive to light and air and can degrade quickly when exposed. Therefore, choose retinoids stored in opaque or dark, airtight packaging to prevent them from breaking down too quickly.
The Encapsulation
Micro-encapsulation is a protective technology which involves enclosing the active ingredient within another material. Retinoids are one of the many active ingredients we have in skincare that are best encapsulated - usually in a a lightweight oil that mimics the natural oils we already have on our skin.
Encapsulating also allows for a slow and controlled release of the retinoid into the skin once applied, reducing any potential irritation and prolonging the effect on your skin. This means that these types of retinoids can be a little bit more pricey.
The Formulation
We often hear that formula is queen and it's true because it makes a big difference to how the product personally feels on your skin. Retinoids can be formulated in oils, creams or water bases serums, so what’s your personal preference?
The Type of Retinoid
It’s important to understand the different types of retinoids because this will also influence your choice depending on your skin’s concerns, your end goal and personal preference. See our quick guide below:
RETINALDEHYDE
Sometimes called Retinal, this retinoid is known to be gentle yet powerful on the skin. It only requires one conversion to become useful to the skin so it’s popular option among those with sensitive skin or new to retinoids.
FIND IT IN…
Naturium Retinaldehyde Cream Serum 0.05% £32
This unique hydrating cream texture serum is perfect for beginners and anyone with sensitive skin. Formulated with peptides to increase skin firmness, this serum improves the appearance and tone of the skin, leaving a smooth, radiant complexion.
RETINOL
One of the most commonly used Retinoids available, Retinol is highly effective but some people can find it a but drying initially because it takes several steps to become useful to the skin once applied. It can be found in a wide range of formulations and strengths depending on your skin’s tolerance.
FIND IT IN…
CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum £23
A lightweight gel serum combining encapsulated Retinol with Niacinamide and Ceramides to restore and protect the skin’s barrier and Licorice Root Extract to target post-breakout hyperpigmentation.
GRANACTIVE RETINOID
The new kid on the block with a unique ability to bind directly with retinoid receptors in the skin without the need to be converted. Very gentle but highly effective, Granactive Retinoids are great for anyone just starting their retinoid journey, or people who prefer gentle formulations.
FIND IT IN…
Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion £11
This emulsion formulation is creamy and lightweight to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while evening skin texture and tone.
You might also come across:
RETINOL RETINOATE
A hybrid of Retinol and Retinoic Acid which delivers a shot of fast acting Retinoic Acid whilst the skin slowly converts the Retinol for later use. Highly effective for concerns such as fine lines, wrinkles and skin laxity.
RETINYL PALMITATE
Retinyl Palmitate is a Retinol Ester that provides the skin with natural antioxidant benefits and low-level UV protection (you still need to wear sunscreen). They’re not of much benefit to the skin on their own so they are mainly used as a supporting ingredient.
ETHYL LACTYL RETINOATE
The first compound that combines two gold-standard skin rejuvenation ingredients - Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA’s) and Retinoids to boost exfoliation of the skin before a slow release retinoid is released into the skin.
Remember!
If you’re planning to get pregnant, are pregnant and/or breastfeeding, check with your medical professional before using retinoids.
If you have more severe skin concerns such as psoriasis or severe acne it’s best to consult a dermatologist for advice on prescription grade retinoids.
Also, you must use a broad spectrum sunscreen with a minimum SPF of 30 daily when using retinoids.