Retinoids Uncovered - How to Soothe Retinol Irritation

Skincare

1 Apr

When you first start using retinol (or even retinal!) it can be tempting to jump in feet first. You happily slap it on for the first few evenings, waiting for the radiant skin of your dreams.

Then, one morning you wake up to a sore face. You ignore it and, later that evening, apply another layer of retinol - after all, this product will fix all your skin troubles. Your face starts to sting and burn, an itchy rash creeps up, and your skin looks puffy and inflamed.
Dryness comes into play, and your skin is itchier than ever. It might even peel and flake like a hot mess.
You drop the retinol like a hot coal. As quickly as it came into your life, it’s now making a hasty exit with a bad rep to boot!

Let’s talk about why your skin freaked out.

You developed Retinoid Induced Dermatitis, known as Retinisation, because your skin did not have time to adjust to this mighty ingredient, and it wasted no time in telling you all about it.

So what do you do when your skin gives retinoids the red light?

STOP AND PAUSE

You’ve probably already done this, but if you haven’t and your skin is getting extremely dry, itchy and peeling, then it’s time to press pause on your retinol. Your skin needs time to rebuild and strengthen its barrier as it’s now very fragile.

PARE BACK ON THE ACTIVES

Abandon products that contain active ingredients such as vitamin C, Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids (lactic, glycolic, mandelic, salicylic acids and others) and enzymes such as papaya and pineapple. Furthermore, ditch the physical exfoliating scrubs and grains. Your skin doesn’t need any further exfoliation as your retinol is already encouraging the skin to regenerate itself rapidly.

SUPPORT AND REPLENISH

Focus on lavishing your skin with ingredients that offer the skin maximum healing support, and replenish lost moisture such as niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, peptides, vitamin B5 (panthenol) and growth factors.

GO BACK TO THE DRAWING BOARD

After your skin has calmed down, you can slowly re-introduce retinol, allowing a few days rest for your skin in between applications. You can even follow the sandwich method by applying retinol over a moisturiser, then following up with another layer of moisturiser. Do this for a few weeks, slowly building your use and tolerance for everyday application.

“There is no evidence that suggests Black skin is at increased risk of irritation. However, retinoid-induced dermatitis can induce post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and discolouration, so it’s safer to take it slow and steady.”

— Black Skin Directory