Is the ‘salmon sperm’ facial worth it for Black skin?
The official term is Polynucleotides and they are the newest injectable treatment on the scene causing excitement and buzz. But what are they really all about? Specifically how do they have any benefits for Black and darker skin tones?

We spoke to BSD professional and Kent based Aesthetic Practitioner Dr Deepthi Vinayan at the Dezire Clinic to get the lowdown.

What are polynucleotides, and its benefits?

They are injectable skin treatments containing fragments of DNA (aka nucleotide) that come from fish sperm either trout or salmon which mirror human DNA closely. They have been widely used in medicine for conditions such as poor wound healing, skin grafting and burn treatments. The benefits of polynucleotides are innumerable from promoting skin rejuvenation by increasing collagen and elastin production leading to reduction in fine lines and wrinkle to improving hydration by locking in moisture into the skin.

Their healing properties are noted for treating ageing skin and sun damage. Additionally, polynucleotides contribute to a more even and firmer skin tone, whilst its anti-inflammatory properties help in treating acne, acne scarring and rosacea. And that’s not all, when used on scalp, polynucleotides can help to promote hair growth and reduce hair thinning so can be a great adjunct to other hair treatments like PRP and hair transplant.

**Dr Deepthi Vinayan, Clinical Director, Dezire Clinic**

How are they different to current injectable skin boosters, like Profhilo?

Polynucleotides are biostimulators which means that they promote skin renewal by acting at a cellular level to stimulate collagen and elastin. The more we have of these, the more youthful our skin looks. They also help with skin hydration by holding in moisture.

Profhilo on the other hand is an injectable made from hylauronic acid that is able to attract and retain water ensuring hydration of the skin. It doesn’t have the ability to encourage regeneration of collagen and elastin, as polynucleotides do.

What areas of the face and body are polynucleotides typically injected?

Polynucleotides are the “all-inclusive” of skin treatments. They can be used anywhere on the body including face, neck , décolletage, back of hands, and anywhere there is crepey skin or scars. They are widely used around eyes with proven safe results.

Who are suitable candidates for polynucleotide treatments? Do they have any particular benefits for skin of colour?

Polynucleotides can be used in anyone over the age of 18 including people of colour with greater benefits in this group. They are well known to reduce and also stabilise melanin production, reduce the activity of melanin cells and influence how pigment is dispersed in the skin. As a result it restores and rebalances pigments in the skin and reduces the risk hyperpigmentation.

Skin of colour produces collagen to a better degree than other ethnicities, leading to minimal fine lines and wrinkles but with the use of polynucleotides this activity is enhanced further leading to a youthful skin.

It is also well known that skin of colour can experience increased dryness, polynucleotides helps to boost and lock in moisture into the skin to improves hydration.

What do polynucleotides treatments involve? How is it administered? How long does it take? Is there any pain or discomfort?

Polynucleotides are an injectable treatment with multiple small injections using very tiny needles or with a blunt cannula. Injections can be around the eyes, face, neck, décolletage, back of hands or any areas of concern. There is minimal pain and leave tiny bumps which resolves in anything from a few hours to a maximum of 1-2 days. If needed, you can requested for a topical numbing cream to be applied.

Overall it is a well tolerated treatment, with the entire procedure lasting anywhere between 30 to 60 minutes.

When do you see results and how long can you expect results to last?

A course of three treatments, 2-3 weeks apart is recommended for the induction phase, and results are usually visible two to four weeks after the last treatment. A maintenance treatment is recommended every six months for long lasting results.

The benefits of polynucleotides can last longer than regular skin boosters, sometimes up to twelve months in some cases. Their longevity will be dependent on lifestyle factors like sun exposure, smoking and skincare regimen.

Is it possible to combine polynucleotides with other cosmetic treatments like peels and laser? How soon can you do this?

Yes! Polynucleotides can be combined with other treatments including microneedling, energy based devices like radiofrequency microneedling and lasers. Chemical peels must be avoided at least two weeks prior.

Do polynucleotide treatments for work for hair loss and how?

Polynucleotides stimulates hair growth and reduce scalp thinning by stimulating hair cycle, promoting dormant hair to enter a growth phase and thereby enhance hair growth. Studies have significant improvement in patients with alopecia, androgenic alopecia and is great adjunct treatment for PRP ( platelet rich plasma therapy) and hair transplant.

Any risks and downsides? Especially for skin of colour?

Polynucleotides are biocombatible meaning they aren’t harmful to human tissue and cells. Injected superficially, they are also classed as a minimally invasive treatments. Therefore risks are minimal when injected by an experienced practitioner.

As with most injectables, it can be common to experience bruising, temporary swelling, puffiness, redness, infection, mild itching which most tend to self-resolve in one to two days. Sensitivity to product is extremely rare and you should be avoid if you have a fish allergy.

For Black and darker skin tones specifically, there can be the small risk of scarring, hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation - again very similar to other types of injectable procedures. Those prone to keloid scarring should refrain from injectable treatments.

What questions should a skin of colour patient/client be asking a practitioner?

It goes without saying that treatments should only be performed by qualified and experienced aesthetic practitioners - in this case it would be doctors, dentists and nurses - who can assess your needs properly.

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Everything you need to know about Polynucleotides

Is the ‘salmon sperm’ facial worth it for Black skin?

The official term is Polynucleotides and they are the newest injectable treatment on the scene causing excitement and buzz. But what are they really all about? Specifically how do they have any benefits for Black and darker skin tones?

We spoke to BSD professional and Kent based Aesthetic Practitioner Dr Deepthi Vinayan at the Dezire Clinic to get the lowdown.

What are polynucleotides, and its benefits?

How are they different to current injectable skin boosters, like Profhilo?

Polynucleotides are biostimulators which means that they promote skin renewal by acting at a cellular level to stimulate collagen and elastin. The more we have of these, the more youthful our skin looks. They also help with skin hydration by holding in moisture.

Profhilo on the other hand is an injectable made from hylauronic acid that is able to attract and retain water ensuring hydration of the skin. It doesn’t have the ability to encourage regeneration of collagen and elastin, as polynucleotides do.

What areas of the face and body are polynucleotides typically injected?

Polynucleotides are the “all-inclusive” of skin treatments. They can be used anywhere on the body including face, neck , décolletage, back of hands, and anywhere there is crepey skin or scars. They are widely used around eyes with proven safe results.

Who are suitable candidates for polynucleotide treatments? Do they have any particular benefits for skin of colour?

Skin of colour produces collagen to a better degree than other ethnicities, leading to minimal fine lines and wrinkles but with the use of polynucleotides this activity is enhanced further leading to a youthful skin.

It is also well known that skin of colour can experience increased dryness, polynucleotides helps to boost and lock in moisture into the skin to improves hydration.

What do polynucleotides treatments involve? How is it administered? How long does it take? Is there any pain or discomfort?

Overall it is a well tolerated treatment, with the entire procedure lasting anywhere between 30 to 60 minutes.

When do you see results and how long can you expect results to last?

A course of three treatments, 2-3 weeks apart is recommended for the induction phase, and results are usually visible two to four weeks after the last treatment. A maintenance treatment is recommended every six months for long lasting results.

The benefits of polynucleotides can last longer than regular skin boosters, sometimes up to twelve months in some cases. Their longevity will be dependent on lifestyle factors like sun exposure, smoking and skincare regimen.

Is it possible to combine polynucleotides with other cosmetic treatments like peels and laser? How soon can you do this?

Yes! Polynucleotides can be combined with other treatments including microneedling, energy based devices like radiofrequency microneedling and lasers. Chemical peels must be avoided at least two weeks prior.

Do polynucleotide treatments for work for hair loss and how?

Any risks and downsides? Especially for skin of colour?

Polynucleotides are biocombatible meaning they aren’t harmful to human tissue and cells. Injected superficially, they are also classed as a minimally invasive treatments. Therefore risks are minimal when injected by an experienced practitioner.

As with most injectables, it can be common to experience bruising, temporary swelling, puffiness, redness, infection, mild itching which most tend to self-resolve in one to two days. Sensitivity to product is extremely rare and you should be avoid if you have a fish allergy.

For Black and darker skin tones specifically, there can be the small risk of scarring, hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation - again very similar to other types of injectable procedures. Those prone to keloid scarring should refrain from injectable treatments.

What questions should a skin of colour patient/client be asking a practitioner?

It goes without saying that treatments should only be performed by qualified and experienced aesthetic practitioners - in this case it would be doctors, dentists and nurses - who can assess your needs properly.

Share This Story

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