How to Treat, Prevent and Fade Hyperpigmentation
While hyperpigmentation can be experienced across skin types and colours, it’s most prominent in Black skin because of the increased melanin. Here, we break down everything you need to know about hyperpigmentation.
HOW DOES HYPERPIGMENTATION OCCUR?
To understand how to treat it, it’s important to delve into why it occurs, so, let’s talk about Tyrosinase. Tyrosinase is an enzyme found in our melanocytes, the cells that produce melanin. However, before there is melanin, Tyrosinase has to get in the mix. It’s responsible for causing the amino acid Tyrosine to oxidise, which creates melanin pigment which is transported to the upper layers of the skin to give the skin colour.
“As the saying goes, too much of a good thing isn’t always great for you and one of the kickbacks of increased melanin production is that the Tyrosinase enzyme misfires and produces excessive melanin.”
— Dija Ayodele
Everyone has the same number of melanocytes in their skin, what differs is the amount of melanin that the melanocytes produce. The darker your skin, the more active your melanocyte cells are. Melanocyte activity is also increased by exposure to UV rays as well trauma and damage to the skin, hormonal fluctuations, illnesses and medication. Tyrosinase kick-starts increased melanin production to fend off damage and protect our skin. “As the saying goes, too much of a good thing isn’t always great for you and one of the kickbacks of increased melanin production is that the Tyrosinase enzyme misfires and produces excessive melanin,” says Dija Ayodele, founder of the Black Skin Directory. “This is what leads to undesirable hyperpigmentation and uneven discolouration of the skin.”
WHAT ABOUT POST-INFLAMMATORY HYPERPIGMENTATION (PIH)?
PIH often occurs as a result of a ‘skin trauma’, injury or inflammation of the skin. It can be caused by acne, eczema, psoriasis or contact dermatitis and results in even more melanin being produced in the areas. “It can appear anywhere inflammation has been and will be the size and shape of whatever caused the inflammation. For instance, PIH in acne can resemble small flat, dark brown blemishes on the cheeks and forehead whereas PIH from eczema or psoriasis may cover a larger area,” says Dr Mary Somerland, Dermatologist and Black Skin Directory Practitioner.
When we understand how excessive melanin leads to unwanted hyperpigmentation, we can stop the main catalyst – Tyrosinase running rampant on the skin, by ensuring our skincare includes Tyrosinase Inhibitors. While exfoliators can help to slough away dead skin cells and therefore fade darker spots, this is often the long way around, while Tyrosinase Inhibitors offer a more targeted approach.
WHAT ARE TYROSINASE INHIBITORS AND WHY ARE THEY IMPORTANT IN TREATING HYPERPIGMENTATION?
Tyrosinase inhibitors help prevent an overproduction of melanin. They come in many forms, some natural, some over the counter and some are available on a prescription-only basis due to their strength. If your hyperpigmentation is small, you can start with a serum formula from recommended retailers. Serums are often the best vehicle for anti-pigmentation skincare as they sit on freshly-washed skin and can penetrate deeper. When adding your new skincare to your basket, look out for anti-pigmentation, lightening and brightening serums that contain common ingredients that work wonders on hyperpigmentation, such as:
Kojic Acid
Tranexamic Acid
Hexylresorcinol
Vitamin A
Bearberry
Niacinamide
Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)
Liquorice Root Extract
Hydroquinone is also a Tyrosinase Inhibitor. Even though its garnered some unfair press over the years, it’s perfectly safe and legal to use for skincare when prescribed by a medical professional and offers one of the strongest defences and protection against hyperpigmentation. Consult a medical professional regarding your hyperpigmentation if you would like to explore this option.
“Don’t be put off by the terms such as lightening and brightening when it comes to describing the prowess of Tyrosinase Inhibitors,” says Ayodele, “they are in no way related to skin bleaching. Tyrosinase Inhibitors have no impact on your overall skin tone and do not make your skin lighter in any way. The only function of these ingredients is to stop the over-oxidising of Tyrosine so there is less overproduction of melanin.” See our other article for more on the difference between skin lightening and skin bleaching.
PREVENTING FUTURE HYPERPIGMENTATION
Like with most skin-related woes, prevention is the best form of protection so if you’re lucky enough to not suffer from hyperpigmentation, you can and should still incorporate Tyrosinase Inhibitors into your skincare regime to maintain radiant and healthy skin. You don’t need to wait until discolouration creeps up. Including a daily UVA/UVB Broad Spectrum SPF30 in your skincare routine will help to protect your skin cells from sun damage in the first instance, whilst preventing any worsening of existing hyperpigmentation too.
TAKE A LOOK AT OUR RECOMMENDED HYPERPIGMENTATION HEROES
ZELENS POWER B REVITALISING AND CLEARING SERUM
vitamin C-packed pomegranate, hydrating hyaluronic acid.
PAULA'S CHOICE DISCOLORATION REPAIR SERUM
With 3% tranexamic acid and 5% niacinamide this hits hyperpigmentation from two angles effectively clearly noticeable marks.
LA ROCHE-POSAY PURE NIACINAMIDE 10 SERUM
This formula effectively combats pigmentation even for the most sensitive skin types.
ALLIES OF SKIN MANDELIC PIGMENT CORRECTOR NIGHT SERUM
The combination of mandelic, lactic and salicylic acid supercharges cell turnover.
RANAVAT BRIGHTENING SAFFRON SERUM
This serum contains both liquorice root and anti-oxidant-rich ashwagandha to even out skin tone.
YOUTH TO THE PEOPLE MANDELIC ACID & SUPERFOOD UNITY EXFOLIANT
A toner that contains radiance-enhancing exfoliants and liquorice root for pigmentation fading.
PAULA'S CHOICE NIACINAMIDE 20% TREATMENT
This highly concentrated niacinimide not only helps to even skin tone but texture too.
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